• 28 Oct 2008 /  Events, Reenacting

    The Camp Swift Salerno +65 Event is over, and what a blast! We had a great turnout of reenactors. The Texas National Guard’s 36th Infantry Division was very well represented and looked great. On the axis side there were some smaller groups as well as a group of Gebirgsjägers from Fort Worth. The largest and strongest contingent were the Fallschirmjäger Rgt. 2 of Texas, with a large display and encampment. Of course the vehicles were star attractions; roaring Shermans and the Hetzer captured a lot of eyes! Add in jeeps, kublewagens, motorcycles and transport trucks and we had a real taste of life in the WWII military.

    The event was well run, safe and very educational; as well as entertaining to the public. I spent a great deal of time talking to the public explaining our equipment; what a zeltbahn was, how it was used from everything from rain gear to tents. Our communications table was pretty well stocked and I talked a lot about our field telephone and switchboard setup and the Torn. Fu.2 radio. I was surprised how much history and WWII trivia the kids I talked to - they learned history from playing ‘Call of Battle’!

    The Allies won the battle of course, you can’t change history! And the beat us to it, they have a movie up on Youtube fast! And it’s really well done, quite a nice piece and captures the dynamic event well.

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  • 15 Oct 2008 /  Equipment

    My flashlight has gone without a battery for a while. You don’t find those 4.5 volt block batteries at the local hardware store. I wondered if I could adapt it to a more convenient type. So I modified it to run on a standard 9v cell. Just added transistor radio type snap adapter - you may guess how old I am to remember transistor radios!

    The caveat is that since 9v is twice the voltage you need to add some resistance to spare your bulbs, else they don’t last very long. The only difficulty is that you need to know either the resistance of the 4.5 Volt light bulb or the current that it uses. Light bulbs, like all heating elements, have almost no resistance when cold but rapidly increase resistance when heated. I measured the current flow with the flashlight on and got 0.66 Amperes. Now I can apply Ohm’s law: 4.5 Volts divided by 0.66 Amperes = 6.8 Ohms which is the value of added resistance needed to convert from 4.5 Volt battery to a 9.0 Volt battery. Now we need to know the wattage of the added resistance to handle the 0.66 Ampere current. Wattage is: Volts x current in Amperes so, 9.0 Volts x 0.66 Amperes = 5.94 or 6 Watts.

    The 6.8 Ohm is a standard resistor value but it might be a little difficult to find in 6 Watts so an alternative is to use another 4.5 Volt light bulb soldered into the circuit in series. So just wrap the second bulb in some aluminum foil to dissipate the heat, taking care not to short out the terminals, and tuck it into the case. More conveniently would be to find a bulb socket that could be used.

    Here’s the sequence… yes i know it’s a Swedish flashlight… haven’t found a German one yet.

    The pieces to make it work…

    The leads soldered in place. Use a little muriatic acid to clean the contacts for a good bond.

    Nice bright light, a little double stick tape holds it in place…

  • 01 Oct 2008 /  Equipment

    At reenactments taking photos is problematic… if you are in-role then a 1943 Jager with a digital camera is a little jarring… and if you use a period camera then you are limited in the media you can use. I usually used Pan-X but it’s getting hard to find and a pain to process; of course digital post editing is impossible on film.

    So I started thinking about how I could camouflage a modern camera. I had a Russian copy of the famous German Leica IIIc camera. Even better it was not functional so using the case wouldn’t be too much of a sacrifice. A bit of machine work and some fitting and I have a really cool vintage-digital!

    Finished the project and it turned out well…

    09 Sep 09 Addendum

    I noticed that YoSpiff’s, Nina Hey Nu’s, and the DPReview posts on the camera are generating some questions so I thought I’d add some detail for the folks that want to try their hand at making one. I’ve added detail in the narrative below. First off… no Leicas were harmed in the making of this so Leica fans relax! It was a broken Russian Fed.

    A word of warning though I am planning to make another digi-retro using a Retina and I’m currently working on putting a video camera inside a working 16mm Filmo movie camera…

    The donor camera; a Russian copy of a Leica IIIc…

    Initial dissassembly of the old Leica, removing the innards. To fit the Olympus inside the old shell everything had to be removed; film winder, pressure plates, film tracks and shutter mechanism. Save all of the hardware that is used to fasten the external parts, but everything else is sacraficed. At least I don’t have to put it all back together so the original camera works!

    The lens of the inner camera will poke out were the original Leica lens was. The lens ring of the Leica is smaller than the Olympus and it is also threaded. I removed the lens ring and put it on the lathe and used a boring tool to enlarge it to fit the Olympus lens. Vitals tools for this conversion are a lathe and a mill. I used a Sherline, which is a handy little tool! Otherwise you will have to do a lot of filing by hand.

    Here’s the newly bored lens ring after the lathe work.

    The inner Olympus was a little taller than the Leica so the top plate had to be cut to fit. That also allows the controls for picture taking to be exposed for ready use and also helped locate the Olympus correctly within the Leica body. Here’s the top on the mill with the cutout being milled.

    Here is the finished ’shell’ camera and the inner Olympus digital camera… The original Fed Leica was covered with a veneer of lacquered wood. I removed that ad used some adhesive aircraft wingwalk material I had on hand. It’s just grip tape.

    Very cool retro camera… looks like a 1938 Leica IIIc and works like a digital!

    The only real clue that this is a digital is the LCD screen visible on the back panel.

    Snapped into its leather case with the embossed Leica emblem it looks right at home on the neck of a jager in the field.

    14 Nov 08 - Late addition
    If you have questions or want to try your hand at making one, you can send me an email, feldwebel at fallschirmjager dot net. I don’t have detailed plans, but I can tell you a little about the problems to overcome. The original donor camera was a Russian copy of a Leica III, a little doggy and non functional. It was also ‘faked’ up by the original seller by adding the engraving of the tank and the word ‘Panzerkampf’ to make it seem like a war collectible. You will find these on eBay with ‘Olympiad 1936′ as well. Nobody engraved real Leica III’s like this during the war.
    Ciao!